Natural Fiber Guide | The Best Fabrics For A Lasting Wardrobe

When building a wardrobe that can stand the test of time, three things are essential - a cohesive color palette, classic silhouettes that compliment your personal tastes and lifestyle, and pieces made from lasting materials that only get better with time. Today, I want to focus on the last part of that puzzle and discuss the beauty of natural fibers.

WHY NATURAL FIBERS

Natural fibers, or substances produced by plants and animals that can be spun into thread and then woven, knitted, matted or bound, are a wonderful choice for our wardrobes. These natural fibers are typically a better wardrobe investment because when cared for correctly, they truly stand the test of time. Below, I've outlined some of the top reasons I like to keep things as natural as possible when it comes to my closet.

• They last longer
• They're easier to care for
• Some natural fibers are considered to be self cleaning and will naturally eliminate bacteria so you don't need to wash them as often
• They're more sustainable
• They're biodegradable 
• They're less toxic to us and the environment

TOP NATURAL FIBERS & HOW TO SPOT THE BEST

Now let's delve deeper into a few of my favorite natural fibers and how to spot the highest quality of each.

• CASHMERE: I love cashmere for it's super soft texture, longevity and warmth and it's my favorite fabric for sweaters. To spot the highest quality cashmere: 

  • It should be super soft. This softness comes from the length of the fibers, and the best cashmeres in the world use long thin fibers.

  • Also, the fabric should feel thick and densely woven. To test the strength of the fabric, you can tug on it slightly and take note of whether or not it bounces back. Higher quality cashmere will bounce back and won't retain the impression of your hands. 

  • Another way to score the best deal possible is to check the tag to see if it’s two-ply or one-ply. One-ply is less durable than two-ply and can be more prone to developing holes. Two-ply is generally regarded as the gold standard of cashmere. 

• WOOL: Next up is wool. I love wool for jackets and scarves and I would love to add a wool sweater to my collection in the future. Before we hop into the specifics of this fabric, I want to note that cashmere is technically a wool because it comes from an animal. For the sake of this post though, I'm using wool to refer to the non-cashmere materials typically used for coats, sweaters and blazers. 

  • Wool is more durable than cashmere so it typically lasts longer

  • Since Wool can come from different animals, there’s a lot more texture variety than there is with cashmere

  • The finer the wool, the higher the quality. You'll typically see wool referred to as ‘Fine Merino Wool’ or ‘Ultrafine Merino Wool’ with ultrafine being the highest quality

  • High quality wool will be 100% wool or a blend of wool and other natural fibers like cashmere or silk so always check the label for these details

  • Like cashmere, high quality wool should be densely woven and bounce back when lightly pulled

• SILK: I love silk for how luxurious it feels, how beautifully it drapes and how it adds visual interest to the other textures and materials I love to wear. 

  • The quality of silk is determined by momme weight (the heavier the momme, the higher the quality) but this information is usually very difficult to find so the easiest way to determine the quality of silk is by the way it feels in your hand. It should feel substantial and soft.

  • It should also be pretty opaque and you shouldn't be able to see too clearly through it because that typically means the fabric is very thin and may not last longer than a few seasons. 

• LINEN: Hands down my favorite fabric for the warmer months is linen and apparently there's good reason for this. Linen, which comes from the flax plant, is often referred to as nature's wicking fabric because it can collect up to 20% moisture before it feels damp. Linen also gets stronger when wet and has some natural antimicrobial properties which help eliminate odors. Plus, linen is very breathable so it's perfect for year-round wear - especially when layered up with wool and cashmere during the colder months. 

  • To spot high quality linen, the country of origin can be helpful. France and Belgium are considered the best environments for growing flax and Ireland and Italy are recognized as the best for weaving the flax into linen. 

  • The die should be even and rich

  • Look out for yellowing on white linen because the discoloration can't be reversed

  • When you roll or bunch the fabric in your hand, good linen will wrinkle but it will also bounce back slightly 

  • Because of the moisture wicking properties, pure linen it should feel slightly cool to the touch 

• COTTON: Nothing beats cotton for year-round wear and I love it because it's affordable, comfortable and easy to care for. 

  • High quality cotton will feel soft, not scratchy

  • You should be able to stretch it slightly without it looking too thin

  • For jeans, I love 100% cotton or 98% and 2% elastane because they last longer than other blends, they hold their shape and are easy to care for 

  • For cotton tops (especially button downs I love a more substantial cotton. I find that they not only last longer but are easier to care for. I can more easily treat stains without damaging the fabric, and I also find that they lay better on the body

Slow Fashion Hacks For Every Budget | Easy Ways We Can All Do Our Part

If you've been here before, then you know how much I stress the importance of choosing the highest quality that you can personally afford, and then caring for those pieces so that they last as long as possible. In my experience, this approach not only helps us reduce our waste but also allows us to spend less money in the long run because we don't need to constantly replace our clothes.

Now, that said, each of us is at different stages in our lives and each of us has different budgets, and none of us should be left out of looking and feeling our best because of either. It's with this core belief that I created my blog to share what I've learned over the years of cultivating my own style on a budget, and I've set out to create content that I hope can help at least someone in their own journey. 

I truly don't think you need to spend a lot to look great, and I think that true style comes from understanding who we are, and how we can use our clothes to represent that to the world. It may seem superficial on the surface level, but I believe that when you look good you feel good, and this helps us in so many ways.

Now, in a sense, all of my content can be classified as "slow fashion," but today I want to dissect the slow fashion movement a little more and really get down to what it truly means, and how we can all participate regardless of our budget. My thought for this post comes as a result of many conversations surrounding slow fashion and their almost inevitable tie to ethical and eco fashion. This progression makes sense of course. We are all deserving of fair pay and ethical treatment and an inexpensive shirt shouldn't come at the expense of others. But, often times the conversations surrounding slow fashion can feel alienating to those of us that can't afford these more ethical brands or don't have the time to scour second hand and thrift stores in order to find the perfect white shirt. Some of us need a top, for work, we need it today, and we need it to be under $30.

Instead, the mentality surrounding slow fashion tends to be "all or nothing" and I think that's a very narrow way of viewing not only the world, but also our personal lives. We're all different and we're all at varying levels of financial ability, and it's often overlooked that not all of us can afford a $400 pair of pants - even if they will last forever, are made from high quality materials and were constructed in a way that didn't interfere with basic human rights. In fact, it's rarely discussed that slow fashion when tied to ethical fashion, eco fashion etc, is often only attainable for those with immense privilege - which is tied to countless other things that we won't get into today. I know this from first hand experience and as a result, you will never find judgement here. Instead, I hope to empower everyone with accessible, achievable steps. 

WHAT IS SLOW FASHION?

Slow fashion is a phrase first coined by Kate Fletcher in a 2007 article where she compared the eco/sustainable/ethical fashion industry to the slow food movement. Slow fashion generally refers to the style, design and quality of a garment and encourages us to shop more thoughtfully, and care for our pieces so that we can wear our clothes for as long as possible. Sometimes even for decades.

"The concept of slow fashion borrows heavily from the Slow Food Movement. Founded by Carlo Petrini in Italy in 1986, Slow Food links pleasure and food with awareness and responsibility. It defends biodiversity in our food supply by opposing the standardisation of taste, defends the need for consumer information and protects cultural identities tied to food. It has spawned a wealth of other slow movements. Slow Cities, for example, design with slow values but within the context of a town or city and a commitment to improve its citizens' quality of life.[2]"

With a focus on quality over quantity, slow fashion a is all about consuming and creating fashion in a conscious way. This movement often connects social and environmental awareness and responsibility with the joy of wearing beautiful, well-made clothing. In past years, retailers and designers released 2 collections every year - spring/summer and fall/winter.

Recently though, this has sped up drastically and retailers are issuing new collections every week. That's 52 new collections per year which equals a LOT of choice. Unsurprisingly, this influx of new, new, new coupled with very low prices (often at the expense of basic human rights somewhere along the retail chain), has resulted in overflowing closets of things we never wear.

As we've all grown tired of having too much of everything in our lives and become aware of the mistreatment that often comes as a result of fast fashion, this movement has grown enormously. From there, the progression from slow fashion to ethical fashion, eco fashion, capsule dressing etc makes sense of course, but I think if you're just starting in the slow fashion movement, it's easier to think about it in the context of HOW you shop, not just WHERE you shop. So, even if you can't afford to only shop from slow fashion designers and brands like Eileen Fisher, you can still have a slow fashion mentality. The key is to break the cycle of shopping constantly. 

WHAT ARE THE PROS & CONS OF SLOW FASHION

Though the pros definitely out weigh the cons, the slow fashion movement has a few of each. So, below I've outlined a few of the top pros and cons so that you can better address your own obstacles. Doing so will help you find a method that works for you and your personal lifestyle. That way you can stick to the changes you make.

SLOW FASHION TIPS FOR ANY BUDGET

Now that we know what slow fashion is, why it's a wonderful way to help us adjust our closets and our shopping habits and the pros and cons of this movement, let's go over some of my top tips for implementing a slower retail pace into our every day lives - regardless of our budgets.

• Buy vintage and pre-owned clothing, shoes and accessories. I LOVE doing this and have honed my methods over the last 15+ years and will be sharing them with you in an upcoming video. In the meantime though, I love this method for finding high quality items at a fraction of their traditional retail. Over the years I've managed to find brand new cashmere sweaters for only $20, new designer shoes for under $100 and lovely pre-owned and vintage bags for under $200.
• shop your closet (or a friends closet) for new trends before you buy something. Often times we already have the perfect piece, we just need to uncover it.
• Get creative with your outfit combinations and mix and match what you have in new ways. As you know, I do this constantly and I never get tired of coming up with new outfits from the pieces I already have.
• Take good care of your things so that they last for as long as possible.
• Buy fewer, well-made garments in classic styles and with clean cuts and lines - these pieces will last longer and not go out of trend quickly

• Redesign and mend old clothes rather than disposing of them
• Get things tailored as needed over the years, replace buttons, add details etc
• Shop from smaller producers and local artisans
• Make your own clothes and accessories 
• Take your time making a purchase so that it's something you'll wear and love for a long time
• Re-sell and donate things you no longer wear

• Identify and then stick to your personal style and a cohesive color palette to ensure everything can be mixed and matched for maximum versatility 
• Know the shapes and silhouettes that work for you and your lifestyle
• Buy fewer prints and more solids - these will mix and match easier, not go out of style as quickly and are usually cheaper to make 
• Spend more on classics basics and less on trends 

• If you can't find what you need pre-owned or vintage, and you can't afford to shop with some of the more expensive slow fashion houses, try to find pieces that are well-made (clean stitching, no loose threads, even hems etc) and buy natural fibers like cotton and linen in classic styles and then take great care of those items so that they hopefully last longer than 1 season. Also, if something doesn't last past one season, don't beat yourself up too much. Instead, try to learn from what went wrong with the piece. Did the colors fade? Did it tear and can't be repaired? etc. That way you're less likely to repeat the same mistake again 
• Get inspired to restyle your existing wardrobe by going on Pinterest and searching for outfits using pieces you already have
• Unsubscribe from fast fashion retail emails - this will help lessen your exposure to the constant in and out mentality that we've grown accustom to

And there you have it!

These are a few of my top line tips for implementing slow (or slower) fashion into our lives - regardless of our budgets.

You can watch my corresponding video here and like always, thanks so much for stopping by!

On My Radar No 47

IMAGE SOURCE

Happy Friday from rainy Charleston! Even though it's incredibly gloomy outside, I can't help but love the rain because it instantly cools everything off - it's only 74 degrees right now which for Charleston in the summer might as well be below freezing!

This weekend, I'm hoping to film and edit a bunch of videos in preparation for our week away in Maine coming up! Also, my video on Sunday is kicking off a mini focused series on my channel all about slow fashion. What it is, why I love it and how we can all retrain ourselves to think about slow fashion in a way that's attainable to everyone - regardless of our budget.

In the meantime though, here are a few of the things that have been on my radar this week. 

MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS TRAILER | I adore Saoirse Ronan and Margot Robbie. Both of these inspiring women are wonderful talented and I can't wait to see them on screen together in their new film. 

IS COLLEGE WORTH THE COST? | This article explores whether or not the rising costs of college tuition make higher education a worthwhile pursuit.

RBG TRAILER | Speaking of inspiring women, I couldn't be more excited for this new biopic about Ruth Bader Ginsburg. 

MEGHAN MARKLE WIMBLEDON LOOK | You know how much I love Meghan Markle's style and her recent look from Wimbledon is absolute perfection. 

A Lovely Weekend Cottage In Upstate New York

One of the things I miss the most about living in the city is the accessibility to upstate. The Hudson Valley and surrounding areas remains one of my favorite places on earth. Theres nothing better than taking a drive with the windows down while the smell of crisp autumn air floats through the car. This house tour perfectly captures that feeling and I would happily call it home. 

How gorgeous are the touches of greenish grey throughout? As we finalize a paint color for the living room (we've been living with a few swatches before making our final decision) I've been increasingly drawn to a deeper color on the molding and baseboards. I love how this contrast offsets the white and lets paintings and other decor really pop. Also, I dream of one day having an alcove like the one below where I can sit and read for hours on cool fall mornings and evenings. The paint throughout is various shades from Farrow & Ball.

This gorgeous weekend oasis was created by architecture firm Hendricks Churchill and required a complete gut of two thirds of the original interior to create the new layout. This new design somehow perfectly blends old and new and feels modern without sacrificing tradition - just what I love. Once the major renovation was completed, interior designer Kathryn Fagin of KJ Designs, filled the space with a perfect blend of old and new. The end result is a space that feels contemporary and uncluttered without feeling cold. Instead, every room glows with the warmth of friends and family gathered for casual dinners and special holidays.

If you want to see more details regarding the renovation, you can read the original article here.